
The tiny upstairs dining room at 49 Dean Street, where Neil Borthwick (ex-Merchants Tavern, married to Angela Hartnett) cooks a short, hand-written daily menu of robust French country food. Twelve covers, two sittings, a room that's been Soho's living room since 1891.
The famous downstairs pub is walk-in (and famously no-phones, half-pints-of-beer-only). The dining room above is the bookable bit. Reserve via frenchhousesoho.com, diary opens 60 days out.
Seven tables, max party of six, two sittings per service. Not a long-lingering room on a busy night. Lunch is the connoisseur's move.
No menu on the website; the day's list goes up on Instagram. Lovely if you trust the kitchen, awkward if you've got a fussy eater in tow.