
Ruth Rogers and the late Rose Gray opened this Hammersmith riverside institution in 1987, originally a canteen for Richard Rogers' architecture practice. It has held a Michelin star since 1997, trained Jamie Oliver and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, and remains London's benchmark for ingredient-led Italian cooking.
This is special-occasion territory. A recent critic's bill landed around £137 a head with a single glass of wine, and Harden's readers regularly vote it London's most overpriced.
Reviews swing between warm and aloof. The cooking and the riverside terrace are the reason to come; manage expectations on the rest.